Uoshio

At Uoshio, in the Takaban area of Gakugei-daigaku, even the opening appetiser makes a point of putting fish centre stage: it arrives as a piece of nigiri sushi. A tender bite of tuna is one way diners may be welcomed, setting the tone for the dishes and drinks to come.

Sashimi and seafood that let the ingredients shine

The menu makes good use of fresh fish, with bluefin tuna sashimi and a seasonal assortment of sashimi that varies according to the day’s supply. Other carefully prepared dishes are well suited to a glass of sake: Taiichiro-kun, a red sea bream from Uwajima in Ehime, is served cured with kombu or simmered in a sweet-and-savoury sauce as Taiichiro-kun kabuto-ni. There is also lightly seared dried squid with its liver intact. Smaller plates include negitoro natto bakudan, a mixture of minced tuna and natto enjoyed wrapped in nori, and aji no namerō, a seasoned preparation of horse mackerel. Together, they make for a meal to savour at an unhurried pace.

Sake to suit the meal, and sushi to finish

Around 30 kinds of sake are available at any given time, including Mutsu Hassen, Wakanami, Gangi and Dana, offering a choice of styles from different parts of Japan. The drinks list also includes shochu such as Kanpachi and Sato, as well as fruit liqueurs and sours. To round off the meal, diners can choose an omakase selection of sushi in 3- or 6-piece portions, or order a toro-taku roll filled with fatty tuna and pickled daikon. A bowl of shijimi clam soup in red miso or white miso soup with plenty of fresh sea lettuce makes a comforting finish.

Uoshio is open from 18:00 until 1:00 the following day, Monday to Saturday. It can get busy, so booking ahead for dinner is a sensible option. Credit cards and PayPay are accepted.